DIY Entry Bench

Drop everything here when you come home -- shoes go in the drawer below, coats go on the hooks, hats and gloves in the nooks above, and anything else on top.

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Watch these videos about miter saws, jigsaws, and cordless drills to help get better use of the tools featured in this project!

Start with the Case

Step 1: Decide whether to build the project as shown or customize it. To add custom touches, you can resize it to fit your home, change the wood, add mouldings of your choice, change the paint color, use an alternate panel for the back, and/or add drawer pulls and coat hooks that fit your decor.

Good to Know: When painting a project, you get a lot more trim and wood options with the variety of different shapes available in the different wood species because the paint makes it all look the same. We used birch, pine, and poplar in this project. You can also substitute MDF instead of birch plywood.

Step 2: Cut the 3/4-inch-thick plywood panels for the sides (A) and shelves (B) (Project Diagram and Cutting Diagram). A straightedge and a handheld circular saw are all you need to make the cuts. Use a blade with at least 40 teeth for the best results. Sand the cut panels with 150-grit sandpaper. 

Step 3: A project of this size is difficult to build on a traditional workbench. Two pairs of 2 x 4s and a couple of sawhorses make a perfect platform. Lay a 2 x 4 cut 45-1/2 inches long (narrower than the back of the project) across each sawhorse. Then lay two 78-inch-long 2 x 4s to span the two shorter boards. Screw the long 2 x 4s to the ends of the shorter ones for a custom workbench (Photo 1).

Step 4: Lay out the locations of the shelves on the sides (Project Diagram, Drawing 1). The sides are slightly wider than the shelves, and the front edges should be set flush to conceal the edge of the plywood back. Clamp together face down -- the shelves and sides will rest on the assembly frame and create the offset at the back. Attach each shelf to one side by drilling countersunk pilot holes and driving the screws. Repeat for the second side. 

Step 5: Verify the accuracy of every step and make sure each corner comes together at 90 degrees. To check for square, measure and compare the corner-to-corner diagonal measurements. Shift the cabinet until the dimensions match before you add more parts to the case (Photo 2).

Step 6: Cut the rails (C) to length, sand the parts, and glue them to the shelves. Cut the stiles (D) to fit between the rails. Glue two stiles to the sides (A) and set the third aside (you’ll attach it to the back later).

Good to Know: Hardwood plywood can run up to 1/16 inch smaller than its nominal thickness. Always cut parts to fit as you go to ensure they fit properly without gaps.

Step 7: Cut the back (E) to size and attach. Apply a light bead of construction adhesive to the shelves and the stiles and rails (because the back is prefinished, regular wood glue won’t stick to it). Position the back and secure with 1-inch finish nails (Photo 3). If you want to vary the project design, select a different back to complement other furnishings or the room decor.

Step 8: With the help of a friend, flip the assembly face up. To install the remaining stile, center it in the cabinet and mark the location with painter’s tape. Remove the stile, add construction adhesive to the back, and set in place (Photo 4). Hold the stile in position with a few pieces of painter’s tape while the adhesive cures.

The Face

Step 1: Cut the bottom rail (F) and side trim (G) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List, and Cutting Diagram). Sand the parts, then glue and clamp them to the cabinet (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). The top edge of the bottom rail and the side trim parts should be flush with the top edge of the shelf. Across the front of the cabinet, use strips of painter’s tape to act as clamps to hold the bottom rail against the shelf. 

Step 2: Cut 1 x 2 material for the base blocks (H) and glue them to the bottom of the case. Cut four pieces of 3/4-inch-square dowel to 5-inches long for the feet and trim blocks (I). On two of the parts, cut a angle on one end. Glue the trim blocks under the lower rail and the feet to the bottom front of the cabinet (Photo 5).

Step 3: Cut the stiles (J) to length and temporarily clamp them in position with painter’s tape. Place the boards for the top rail (K) and mid rail (L) against one stile, mark the actual length of the rails (Photo 6), and cut the rails to length.

Step 4: Cut the eight dividers (M) to 9 inches long and drill two pocket holes on each end on the inside face (Project Diagram, Drawing 3). Then drill three pocket holes on each end of the top rail and two on each end of the mid rail. Set five of the dividers aside to use for the drawer. 

Step 5: Mark the locations of the dividers on the top and mid rail. Glue and clamp the dividers to the rails.

Good to Know: Assembly methods vary with the tools you own. If you have a nail gun, no clamps are needed. Adjust the parts alignment to ensure the face frame is flush with the sides of the cabinet as you drive each nail. If you do not have a nail gun, clamp the face frame in position on the case and allow the glue to dry, adjusting the alignment as you place the clamps.

Step 6: Verify the alignment of the parts and drive the pocket-hole screws (Photo 7). When the top divider assembly is complete, glue the ends of the rails, clamp the stiles in position on the ends of the assembly, and drive the remaining pocket screws to complete the face frame.

Step 7: Sand the face frame and glue in position on the front of the case (Photo 8). When the glue dries, sand the edges of the face frame where it meets the case.

Trim

Step 1: Cut the case trim parts (N), (O), (P), (Q), (R), (S) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List). These parts will be about two inches too long, cut a 45-degree miter on one end of the front and one side of each of the parts.

Good to Know: When cutting mitered parts, cut them 2 inches longer than specified so you can custom-fit each part as you go. First cut a miter on one end of each part -- the extra length allows for a test fit and marking the exact final length.

Step 2: Place the the first set of trim, parts (N) and (O), in position (Project Diagram, Drawing 4) without glue by aligning the parts (Photo 9). If the joint is tight, tape the front trim in position.

Step 3: Mark where to cut the other end of each part (Photo 10). Make a cut, reposition the part using the side trim to reset the exact location, and secure with glue and nails. For the side trim parts, place them against the front trim and mark the length. Make the cut and secure to the case with glue and nails.

Step 4: When the first pieces of trim are secured, lightly sand the parts and apply the next layer of trim using the same process. After the glue dries, stand the cabinet on its feet.

Drawer Trim

Step 1: Cut the drawer rails (T) to length from a poplar 1 x 3. Retrieve the dividers (M) remaining from the assembly of the face frame. Glue and screw the drawer face frame together (Project Diagram, Drawing 5) and sand the assembled frame. 

Step 2: Cut the drawer face (U) from 1/4-inch plywood. The face is 2-1/2 inches shorter than the length of the drawer face, and 2 inches shorter than the height. Center the panel on the back side of the drawer face frame -- the side with the pocket holes -- and secure with glue and 3/4-inch finish nails (Photo 11).

Step 3: Flip the drawer face over and prepare to add the drawer trim (V) (Project Diagram, Drawing 4) by cutting 16 pieces of drawer trim to 10 inches long. Cut a miter on one end of each part and position one piece of trim at a time against the drawer face to mark the location of the second miter so the trim will fit into the recess created by the face frame (Photo 12). Glue the trim in position and repeat for the remaining trim parts.

Step 4: Cut a poplar 1 x 8 into 4 parts for the drawer front and back (W) and drawer ends (X). Sand the parts and assemble using glue and screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 5). Cut a piece of 1/4-inch plywood for the drawer bottom (Y) and secure with glue and nails. 

Step 5: To install the drawer glides, cut a 3/4-inch-thick spacer and set in the cabinet (Photo 13). Secure the cabinet halves of the drawer glides in the assembly with their front ends inset 1/4 inch from the front edge of the sides (A) and resting on the spacer (Project Diagram, Drawing 4). On the drawer box, screw the remaining drawer hardware on the bottom so the hardware is flush to the front of the drawer. The 1/4-inch difference between the hardware in the cabinet and on the drawer allows the drawer face (U) to be attached later to recess into the cabinet.

Step 6: Slide the drawer into the cabinet. Apply two strips of double-faced carpet tape to the drawer front (W). Lay quarters on the feet (I) to serve as spacers and press the drawer front against the drawer box (Photo 14). This will space the drawer off the feet so it will open and close smoothly.

Step 7: Open the drawer, drill countersunk pilot holes through the drawer box into the dividers, and screw the front to the box.

Finish and Final Assembly

Step 1: Locate the drawer glides on the drawer face (Project Diagram, Drawing 4), drill holes for the screws, and attach the pulls. 

Step 2: Cut the back brace (Z) to length and attach to the back of the cabinet, the top of the brace should be 21-1/2 inches from the top of the cabinet. Use construction adhesive to attach the brace and temporarily clamp it to the cabinet while the adhesive cures. 

Step 3: Attach the garment hooks to the back (E), driving screws through the hooks and back and into the back brace. 

Step 4: Remove all of the installed hardware before painting. Use a hammer and nail set to drive any exposed nails slightly below the surface of the wood. Fill the holes and any small gaps with a sandable wood filler. When the filler dries, lightly sand the entire project and soften any sharp edges with 220-grit sandpaper. 

Step 5: Apply a primer, lightly sand the primer when it dries, and then apply two coats of semigloss paint. After the paint cures for 48 hours, re-install the hardware and put the project to use in your home!

Owning a Home is Still the Dream

Interest Rate Update

30 Year Fixed up to $417,000	2.99% to 3.375%
30 Year Fixed “Agency” up to $625,500	3.25% to 3.50%
30 Year Fixed FHA up to $417,000	3.0% to 3.25%
30 Year Fixed FHA “Jumbo” up to $729,500	3.25% to 3.50%

Reasons People Moved in 2012

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DIY Platform Bed

Platform Bed

Cut from plywood and customizable to any size mattress, this platform bed eliminates the need for a box spring and adds lots of storage.

This bed, made from mostly plywood, is affordable, customizable, and something you can build this weekend and finish the next. The plans include all the dimensions you need for a twin-, full-, queen-, or king-size mattress (no need for box springs with this platform bed). Size your bed from one of two plan options. For a twin or full size, use Plan Set 1. For the queen or king size, use Plan Set 2. The twin and full beds are shorter than a king and queen. The larger width and length of the queen and king beds require a center divider in the end case and longer side cases to support the larger bed sizes. Substitute birch plywood and edge tape for all of the plywood parts, and replace oak with maple or poplar for a light wood option. Or, paint it to coordinate with your bedroom colors. To add a modern twist, use MDF (medium density fiberboard) with no edge tape, and apply a clear polyurethane finish. You can also choose a variety of stain colors, or apply a clear finish to the oak.

Build the Base

Step 1: Cut the 3/4-inch plywood into smaller sections to create the side case bottoms/tops (A), dividers (B), side backs (C), end case top/bottom (D), and the end case back (E) (Project Diagram, Cutting Diagram and Cutting List). If you are building the queen- or king-size bed, there is one extra divider than the full/twin size, and it’s used in the end case.

Good to Know: Each size bed has a different Cutting List and Cutting Diagram, so before sawing any wood, grab the cutting list that matches your bed size. There are two sets of drawings for the four major mattress sizes. One plan is for a twin or full, and another for a queen or king. The main difference, aside from the width of the mattress is the length of the mattress. A twin and full are the same length, and a queen and king are the same length. These photos and instructions are for a queen size; but we will point out the subtle differences for the full/twin size.

Step 2: Align the ends of the tops and the bottoms of the side cases and lay out the divider locations (Photo 1). A framing square will help transfer the marks onto both sheets to ensure proper alignment during assembly.

Step 3: Several plywood edges on the tops, bottoms, and dividers will be exposed in the final project and need to be covered with a veneer edge tape (Project Diagram, Drawing 1) to create a finished look. After marking the edges that need to be covered, cut veneer tape pieces an inch longer than those edges. Use a household iron to activate the glue, and press the veneer into position on the edges of the panels (Photo 2). A piece of painter’s tape can secure the veneer until you activate its adhesive.

Step 4: Allow the veneer tape to cool for a few minutes, trim the edges with a utility knife, and sand the panels and edging (Photo 3). A sanding sponge creates a softened edge on the veneer to reduce any sharp edges. A random-orbit sander with 180-grit sandpaper smoothes the plywood panels.

Step 5: Apply glue to a divider, position it against the bottom, and clamp in position. Drill a countersunk pilot hole and drive a screw 1 inch from the front edge. Use a square to ensure the dividers are 90 degrees to the front edge and secure with the remaining screws. Repeat for the other dividers.

Step 6: Glue and screw the top to the case. Secure the back using screws but no glue (when finishing the case it will be easier to remove the back to access the inside of the case). The case back attaches flush to the headboard end of the case, and the remaining opening near the foot of the bed is covered by the end case (Photo 5). When the first case is complete, assemble the second side case and the end case.

Headboard and Mattress Support

Step 1: Cut the headboard panel (F), stiles (G), and rail (H) to size (Project Diagram, Cutting Diagram and Cutting List) and assemble using glue and screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). Cut the 2-inch-wide veneer edging and iron in place on the headboard (Photo 6). Trim and sand away the excess.

Step 2: Trim the cool veneer with a utility knife and sand the assembled headboard smooth. 

Step 3: Cut the side rails (I) and end rail (J) to length and sand smooth. 

Step 4: Cut the side supports (K) from 2 x 4s, the slats (L) from 1 x 4s, and the platform (M) from 3/4-inch-thick plywood. The plywood needs no edging and the parts do not require a finish.

Good to Know: For a twin-size bed, no slats are needed under the platform. For a king-size bed, you’ll need two platform pieces to cover the opening.

Finish and Assembly

Step 1: Apply the stain of your choice to the base cabinets, headboard assembly, and the rails. After the stain dries, apply three coats of satin polyurethane. After each coat cures, sand the clear finish with a 320-grit sanding sponge, wipe with a tack cloth, and apply the next coat. When the final coat cures, reinstall the case backs. 

Step 2: Apply the side supports (K) to the back of the side cases (Project Diagram, Drawing 2) -- the top edge of the 2 x 4s should be 1-1/2-inch below the top of the cases and flush with each end of the case side backs (C) (Photo 7). For the twin-size bed, the slats will not be used; position the side supports 3/4-inch below the top edge of the case.

Step 3: Add the side rails (I) to the side cases. The rails should be flush on the headboard end of the cases and overhang the side and footboard end of the cases by 1/2 inch (Photo 8).

Step 4: Move the components into the bedroom and position the cases into the bed location about a foot from the wall. Slip the headboard into position so it extends 1 inch beyond the side cases and 1/2 inch beyond the side rails (I). Drill two 3/8-in holes through the side case dividers (B) and the headboard assembly. Connect the headboard using 1/4-20 connector bolts and nuts tightened using two Allen wrenches. Tightening the connector bolts will square the bed assembly(Photo 9).

Step 5: Install the end rail across the foot of the bed between the side rails so it overhangs the end of the bed by 1/2 inch. 

Step 6: Rest evenly spaced slats (L) on the side supports (Photo 10) and place the platform (M) on the slats.

Step 7: Slide the bed against the wall and add a mattress and linens.